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Clamming at Dusk, April 10, 2005
Clamming at Dusk, April 10, 2005 It felt like a dream. Roused by some primal urge, a troupe of friends raced the tide. It didn’t take much. Clam rake. Shellfish license. Rubber boots to keep out the...
View ArticleGRIST FOR THE MILL: Letter from the Editor
Look in your backyard. There’s a burgeoning wine country, chefs carving out a Long Island cuisine, and farmers cooking artisanal potato chips. The East End is in the midst of a food revolution, and we...
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PECONIC FORAGER: Sweetness of Spring
Honeybees are a miracle. To make one pound of honey, the 50,000 bees in a typical hive will cover 55,000 miles and tap two million flowers. (Their body-mass-towingspan ratio still baffles the logic of...
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ON THE VINE: Passing the Bottle
The Next Generation in Long Island Wine Country AQUEBOGUE—”Are you familiar with chaos theory?,” Kareem Massoud asked with an incipient smile. He stood in front of a Rube Goldberg-esque contraption,...
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NOTABLE EDIBLES: Wine Camp
Hello Mother, Hello Father Try to imagine summer camp with impeccable food, endless wine, and no kids. Enter Wine Camp, a four-day immersion in Long Island wine country launched this March by the Long...
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CULT OF TASTE: Learn Your ABC’s
In recent years, an anything-but-chardonnay doctrine has emerged among wine drinkers in America. This ABC crowd writes off overwhelming, oaky chardonnays as too difficult to pair with many foods or to...
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EATER AT LARGE: Farmer’s Best Friend
The American Farm Bureau, one of the oldest institutions in American agriculture, enjoys a reputation soiled in recent years by corruption, accounting scandals, discrimination, and more allegiance to...
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Notable Edibles: Knee High
Most farmers are satisfied with corn that’s knee high by the 4th of July. Not Jacob Rottkamp of Fox Hollow Farm on Sound Avenue in Baiting Hollow. About 20 years ago, Mr. Rottkamp started planting...
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NOTABLE EDIBLES: Public House Goes Global
This past spring, a man boarded a bus in Montreal and got off eight hours later in front of the Southampton Publick House. Over the course of three hours, he downed a 12-ounce glass of each of the...
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NOTABLE EDIBLES: Hail Rhubarb
Rhubarb is a much-maligned plant. It prevails partly because of its utility (it’s prolific early in the year and this “pie-plant“ helps thicken and stretch pies, jams, and similar dishes) and partly...
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NOTABLE EDIBLES: Strawberry Fever
The largest communal strawberry hulling effort in the Northeast, and perhaps the world, will take place in Mattituck this June as part of the 51st Annual Strawberry Festival and Country Fair. On June...
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Fondue for Two
Shrugging off a stigma of fondue as suited only for cold, winter nights and shag carpets, two East End cheeseshops will be offering it through the warmer months. “It’s a great, quick appetizer. It’s a...
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NOTABLE EDIBLES: Greenmarkets Galore
Following an explosion of farmers markets around the country, the East End will play host to four different farmers markets this year. Building on last year’s successful pilot season, the Sag Harbor...
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NOTABLE EDIBLES: Herb in a Bag
“Deliver Us From Bland Food!” is the tagline on the new herb blends sold by Peconic River Herb Farm on River Road in Calverton. “I was tired of the inferior quality of other seasoning blends,” said...
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COOKING FRESH
Between May and July, the spring crops on Long Island kick into high gear. Lettuces, spinach and other salad greens proliferate. Rhubarb is at its sweetest, or, perhaps, its least bitter. There are so...
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FROM GOOD LAND: The Salad Bowl of the North Fork
Dominant Greens CUTCHOGUE—Paulette Satur deals in ephemeral pleasures. Tomatoes ripened to near splitting perfection. Pungent leeks with firm, unblemished trunks. Squash blossoms that exist for just...
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ROADSIDE DIARIES: Sang Lee Farms
Sang Lee Farms has a jumpstart on the season. PECONIC—Step into the shop at Sang Lee Farms, and you might think you have entered a time warp, fast-forwarding to summer. The shelves are teaming with...
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ROADSIDE DIARIES: Pike Farms
On the culinary trip that is 27, Pike Farms provides a refuge from the highway. SAGAPONACK—The mouthwatering attractions pop up one after another, beckoning drivers like the all-you-can-eat dinner...
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Out to Sea: The Striper Returns
Sure Cure for Cabin Fever BRIDGEHAMPTON—Every Wednesday at 7:00 a.m., a group of hunter-gatherers convenes at the Poxabogue golf course restaurant to size up its target. This tribe is known as the...
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END OF THE BIN: Clamming at Dusk, April 10, 2005
It felt like a dream. Roused by some primal urge, a troupe of friends raced the tide. It didn’t take much. Clam rake. Shellfish license. Rubber boots to keep out the icy water. (Some went barefoot.)...
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